Bow & Truss (11122 Magnolia Blvd., North Hollywood; 818.985.8787) is a Latin-themed restaurant in a former auto body shop. What does the name mean? It comes from a design element on the ceiling left alone from its days replacing bumpers. This NoHo spot has a sleek, outdoor patio, where you can smell thyme and basil from the garden next to it. Inside is a European-style open kitchen, counter seating or grab a spot in one of the big booths in the airy, industrial brick-and-concrete main room.
Here, it’s all about the seafood. Order up the scallops with saffron polenta, corn and pepper salsa, and piquillo sauce; the seafood pot with sea bass, mussels, clams, shrimp, lobster claw, and potato; The Pig ‘n’ Beans (a big pot of chorizo, piquillo and fried egg). As for dessert, get the extra virgin olive oil cake with peach mousse, topped with a candied pansy.
Cocktails are based on the early Spanish influence on California. Order up the cocktail with cucumber, Palo Cortado sherry, maraschino and lemon. (It’s an homage to Don Pio Pico, last Mexican governor of Alta California province). Or, try the Sherry Cobblers and the Horse Thief Old Fashioneds (scotch, sherry and absinthe).
Full menu here.
